When fitting the hinge make sure it faces outwards a little. This ensures the door will fit and swing outwards.
When wiring the door make your frame first. Then lay it on your mesh and cut the wire to the shape shown in photo.
Once you have your mesh cut you can use the cut mesh ends to tie the mesh to itself. Bend the cut mesh ends up and round.
As the latch is a neat fit to the frame cut the mesh away from where the door latch will go. Cut it high enough that the latch will flip up with ease.
Also notice the mesh on this side of the door has been laced up with the lacing wire.
When it comes to attaching the mesh onto the frame at the bottom we have found that raising it up on something makes the job much easier. Since taking this photo we have adapted the method to raising the whole frame on milk crates.
On the sides of the cage we use the same method of tying the wire back onto itself.(as shown on the door frame)
The front (where the gate is) and back we use the lacing wire to attach the wire. We also use the lacing wire on all four corners.
When putting on wheels fit to the corner joiners first before making the frame
PUTTING THE FRAME UP
There are excellent diagrams and instructions included in the kit. This is to give you a quick run down on the process.
Lay out feet in a rough shape of pen.
Place all the pipes where you need them for each wall.
Begin joining the bottom pipes to the legs.
Next put in the uprights and then the top joiners and top cross bars.
Then fit the roof apex.
Galvinised butterfly screws are supplied in the kit to tighten the pipe and joiner together. What we found is that by using galvinised teck screws on each joiner makes it easier and quicker to build the frame.
(screw size; 10-16 x16 not supplied)